"Could someone actually wear that?" I asked myself several times while exploring Iris van Herpen's recent exhibition, Sculpting the Senses, at the Brooklyn Museum.
Her designs exist in the space between fashion and art: sculptures shaped like garments and garments that look like sculptures. Yet they are worn by artists like Björk, Lady Gaga, and Beyoncé. Working alongside architects, engineers, scientists, artists, and mathematicians, van Herpen pushes the boundaries of couture by blending traditional craftsmanship with experimental technologies.
The exhibition itself was remarkably comprehensive... overwhelming, if I'm honest. It unfolded through themes inspired by water, dreams, marine life, outer space, insects, and fungi. While each section had its own distinct atmosphere, I found myself most interested in the technological innovation behind the work. Advanced fabrication techniques, experimental materials, and new approaches to making revealed a fascinating exploration of what couture can become. At times, however, the technology felt more prominent than the themes it was meant to explore. The result was a collection of intriguing creations that invited you to stare and study every detail.
One of my favorite spaces was the workshop room, which offered a glimpse into van Herpen's creative process. Fabrics, samples, and materials were arranged like an artist's mood board, showing the evolution of an idea. You could even look through microscopes to see tiny details from nature that inspire her work.
I have to admit that I struggled with the exhibition more than I expected. I was impressed by the technical innovation and detail behind each creation, but I found myself searching for more of the human element: the emotions, imperfections, and stories that make a piece feel personal. With so many designs, materials, and concepts competing for attention, the experience occasionally felt overwhelming rather than intimate.
Ultimately, each creation reflected countless collaborations and ideas coming together, with fashion serving as the meeting point between art, science, and technology. I may not have connected with the work, but I was fascinated by the imagination and experimentation behind them. Sometimes it was enough to stand in front of a design and wonder, "How on earth did they make that?"
